Style guide for real men

Style guide for real men

The best-dressed men are rarely the ones wearing the most expensive clothes. They are the ones whose clothes fit, suit their body and work together. You do not need a huge wardrobe or a big budget to look sharp every day. You need a few basics, the right fit and a couple of simple rules.

Fit comes first

Before you think about brands or trends, look at the fit. A cheap shirt that fits well looks better than a designer shirt that does not. – Shoulders: the shoulder seam of a shirt or jacket should sit right at the edge of your shoulder, not hanging down your arm. – Sleeves: shirt sleeves should end at the wrist bone; jacket sleeves slightly above, showing a little shirt cuff. – Chest and waist: the shirt should skim your body without pulling at the buttons or billowing at the waist. – Pants: they should sit on your waist without a belt doing all the work, with little or no fabric bunching at the ankle. – Length: a T-shirt should end around the middle of your zipper; a casual shirt worn untucked should not cover your entire seat. If something is almost right, a tailor can shorten sleeves, taper a shirt or hem pants for very little money.

Build a small, flexible wardrobe

Start with pieces that go with almost everything: – Plain T-shirts in white, black, gray and navy – One or two button-up shirts (white or light blue) and a casual shirt like an oxford or linen shirt – Dark jeans with a slim or straight leg, plus chinos in khaki or navy – A versatile outer layer: a bomber, denim jacket, overshirt or casual blazer – A crew-neck sweater or quarter-zip for cooler days – Clean white sneakers, a pair of boots or loafers, and one pair of dress shoes

Stick to easy colors

Neutral colors (black, white, gray, navy, olive, tan) all work together, so almost any combination looks put together. Add color with one piece at a time, such as a shirt or jacket, instead of wearing several bright colors at once.

Dress for your body type

– Slim builds look good in layers and textured fabrics that add some structure. – Broad or muscular builds should choose stretch fabrics and slim, not skinny, cuts so clothes do not strain. – Bigger builds look best in darker colors, vertical lines and pieces that fit cleanly without being tight or oversized. – Shorter men benefit from matching colors top to bottom and cropped or no-break pants to lengthen the legs.

Small details that make a big difference

Keep shoes clean, iron or steam wrinkled shirts, remove lint and pilling, and match your belt to your shoes. A fresh haircut and a groomed beard complete any outfit.

The bottom line

Focus on fit, build around simple basics in neutral colors and take care of the details. With just a few well-chosen pieces, you can look good for work, dates and weekends without spending a fortune.

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